Tuesday, November 20, 2007

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas

Actually, it's been looking like Christmas around here for a while. I first spotted Christmas candy in the grocery store in September. SEPTEMBER! Decorations started appearing in October. Vendors selling roasted chestnuts showed up about the same time. And now that we're approaching the end of November, the Christmas season is in full swing.

One of the most famous aspects of Christmas in Austria (and I guess in most parts of Europe) is the Christkindlmarkt (literally, Christ-child Market) or Weihnachtsdorf (Christmas Village). All over Vienna, small villages of wooden stalls are set up where vendors can sell their wares -- whether it's wooden toys, hand-painted ornaments, or fresh-baked sweets. Most of the Christmas Markets opened last weekend and the remaining are opening this weekend.


Sunday evening I met Kari and Kim in the city to visit one of the Christmas Markets known for it's "artistic" handicrafts -- whatever that means. But silly me, I forgot to look up the exact address and we were never able to find it. So we headed over to the Rathaus to visit the largest Christmas Market. As we were approaching, before we could see anything expect the lights on the top of the Rathaus, Kim said, "I smell cotton candy!" And she was right. As we approached, the smell was heavenly. I first noticed the scent of candied nuts. I wasn't sure what I was smelling, but it was sweet and sugary and it made me interested in the food stall. (The fact that it was about 7 p.m. and I hadn't eaten dinner yet probably also contributed to my piqued interest in food.)

There were other smells too. Chestnuts roasting. Sausages and various types of fried potatoes. Sweet baked goods. And the punch. I didn't try the punch, but I could smell the berries. One stall had a chocolate fountain and you could get a waffle bowl filled with fruit or nuts or marshmallows covered in chocolate. I tried bananas and pineapples and they were delicious.

Some of the stalls were very nice, but many were a disappointment. Many sold the same items you can find in tourists shops. But then again, this particular Christmas Market is the one most visited by tourists. I'm hoping for more authentic goods at other markets. I liked the stalls with hand-painted Christmas ornaments. The one below is my favorite. It's hard to tell in the photo, but the glass is clear and on the front is a picture of a window and the girl standing in front of the tree is painted on the backside. So when you look at it from the front, it's like you're looking at the scene through the window.


And, of course, I also enjoyed looking at the stalls with Christmas sweets. The heart-shaped cookies you can see hanging from the stall in the picture below are very popular. Well, I see them everywhere, but I've never actually seen someone buy one. I believe you are supposed to buy one for your significant other. (They have messages like "I love you" on them.) They're on a long ribbon, which your significant other can use to wear the cookie around her neck. Maybe someone who is familiar with these cookies can give more details because I'm not sure what they're called or whether I have the story straight.


Even though some of the stalls were a bust, I had a lot of fun checking out the scene and eating the food. I'm sure I'll visit more before the season is over.

5 comments:

Brad & Stacey said...

It was fun to check out all the goodies wasn't it! I heard that the Schoenbrunn Christkindlmarkt is really nice too.

Enjoy your Thanksgiving tomorrow!:)

Alisha said...

I've also heard good things about Schoenbrunn. It's on my list of places to visit!

Unknown said...

Schoenbrunn's is really nice (the mug they gave me my Kinderpunch in was beautiful), you definitely need to go to that one. The one at Karlskirche was a lot more "Bohemian" than the one at the Rathhaus, I think you'll find a lot more creative artisan things there (if the same people are still running it--a lot can change in 11 years).

April said...

Wow, your markets opened early. Ours doesn't open until Friday. I can't wait!!

Alisha said...

Gina - I've heard that Schoenbrunn is the best. I don't think I've heard anything about Karlskirche, but I don't remember a lot of the names. I'm also planning on visiting Spittelburg, I think it's called.

April - Maybe they have to open so early because there are so many of them! I can't believe the number of markets in Vienna.